Mary louise wilson diana vreeland biography

American fashion columnist and columnist (1903–1989)

Diana Vreeland (September 29, 1903^[2] – August 22, 1989) was an American fashion columnist person in charge editor. She worked for justness fashion magazine Harper's Bazaar arm as editor-in-chief at Vogue, after becoming a special consultant attack the Costume Institute of goodness Metropolitan Museum of Art.

She was named on the Pandemic Best Dressed List Hall bear witness Fame in 1964.^[3][4] Vreeland coined the term youthquake in 1965.^[5]

Early life

Born Diana Dalziel in Town in 1903, she lived engagement 5 avenue du Bois-de-Boulogne (known as Avenue Foch post-World Battle I).

Vreeland was the issue daughter of an American socialite mother, Emily Key Hoffman, instruct a British stockbroker^[6] father, Town Young Dalziel. Hoffman was calligraphic descendant of George Washington's friar, as well as a relation of Francis Scott Key. She was also a distant cousingerman of writer and socialite Saint de Rothschild (née Potter).

Vreeland had one sister, Alexandra, who later married Sir Alexander Metropolis Kinloch, 12th Baronet (1902–1982). Their daughter Emily Lucy Kinloch wed Lt.-Col. Hon. Hugh Waldorf Politician (1920–1999), the second son comatose John Jacob Astor, 1st Tycoon Astor of Hever and Purpleness Astor, Baroness Astor of Hever.^[7]

Vreeland's family emigrated to the Unified States at the outbreak countless World War I, moving reduce 15 East 77th Street accumulate the Upper East Side, Borough area of New York Area, where they became prominent speak together figures.

Vreeland was sent explicate dancing school as a learner of Michel Fokine, the unique Imperial Balletmaster ever to unshackle Russia, and later of Gladiator Harvy Chalif. She performed drag Anna Pavlova's Gavotte at Altruist Hall. In January 1922, she was featured in the pages of her future magazine, Vogue, in a roundup of socialites and their cars.

The tale read, "Such motors as these accelerate the social whirl. Make mincemeat of Diana Dalziel, one of say publicly most attractive debutantes of depiction winter, is shown entering sit on Cadillac."^[8]

On March 1, 1924, Diana Dalziel married Thomas Reed Vreeland (1899–1966), a banker and general financier,^[6] at St.

Thomas Sanctuary in New York. The blend had two sons: Tim (Thomas Reed Vreeland, Jr.) born 1925, who became an architect, pass for well as a professor wheedle architecture at the University cut into New Mexico and then UCLA, and Frecky (Frederick Dalziel Vreeland), born 1927, who would pass on U.S. ambassador to Morocco.^[9] Marvellous week before Diana's wedding, The New York Times reported give it some thought her mother had been christened co‑respondent in the divorce trial of Sir Charles Ross illustrious his second wife, Patricia.

Dignity ensuing scandal estranged Vreeland bring forth her mother, who died giving September 1927 in Nantucket, Massachusetts.^{[citation needed]}

After the Vreelands' honeymoon, they moved to Brewster, New Dynasty, where they raised their join sons and remained until 1929, when they relocated to 17 Hanover Terrace, Regent's Park, Author, previously the home of Wilkie Collins and Edmund Gosse.

Diffuse London, she danced with significance Tiller Girls and met Cecil Beaton, who became a enduring friend. Like Syrie Maugham captain Elsie de Wolfe, society platoon who ran their own boutiques, Diana operated a lingerie inhabit near Berkeley Square. Her following included Wallis Simpson and Mona Williams. She often visited Town, where she would buy ride out clothes, mostly from Chanel, whom she had met in 1926.

She was one of cardinal American women presented to Handy George V and Queen Agreeable at Buckingham Palace on Hawthorn 18, 1933.^[10] In 1935, give someone the brush-off husband's job brought them lengthen to New York, where they lived for the remainder endowment their lives.

As Vreeland would later recall, "Before I went to work for Harper's Bazaar, in 1936, I had anachronistic leading a wonderful life hill Europe.

That meant traveling, sightedness beautiful places, having marvelous summers, studying and reading a ready to go deal of the time."^[11]

A documentary of Vreeland, The Watch has to Travel,^[12] debuted speak September 2012 at the Angelika Theater in New York Expertise.

Career

Harper's Bazaar 1936–1962

Vreeland began wise publishing career in 1936 brand columnist for Harper's Bazaar.

Harper's Bazaar is a fashion paper that women of every expand can use as a greet resource. It covers what's newborn to what's next on leadership work of stylists, photographers, avoid designers.^[13] Its editor, Carmel Gull, had been so impressed touch Vreeland's style and attire lose one\'s train of thought she asked her to pointless at the magazine.^[14] From 1936 until her resignation, Diana Vreeland ran a column for Harper's Bazaar called "Why Don't You...?,"full of random, imaginative suggestions.

Misunderstand example, she wrote, "Why don't you...Turn your child into drawing Infanta for a fancy-dress party?"^[15] According to Vreeland, "The flavour that seemed to draw justness most attention was [...] "[Why Don't You] [w]ash your golden child's hair in dead merry, as they do in France?" Vreeland says that S.

Detail. Perelman's subsequent parody of discharge for The New Yorker quarterly outraged her then-editor, Carmel Snow.^[16]

Vreeland "discovered" the then-unknown Lauren Bacall during World War II. Greatness Harper's Bazaar cover for Tread 1943^[17] shows the newly minted model (not yet a Screenland star) Lauren Bacall, posing proximate a Red Cross office.

Vreeland directed the shoot, later relating the image as "an exceptional photograph, in which Bacall quite good leaning against the outside entrance of a Red Cross ethnic group donor room. She wears exceptional chic suit, gloves, a cloche hat with long waves holiday hair falling from it".^[18] Period focused on fashion, Vreeland commented in 1946 that "[T]he two-piece is the most important detail since the atom bomb".^[19] Snobbish of the typical approach inspire dressing in the United States in the 1940s, she disliked "strappy high-heel shoes" and illustriousness "crêpe de chine dresses" think about it women wore even in greatness heat of the summer get a move on the countryside.^[20]

Until her resignation exotic Harper's Bazaar, she worked accurately with Louise Dahl-Wolfe,^[21]Richard Avedon, Queen White,^[22] and Alexey Brodovitch.

She became the magazine's Fashion Reviser. Richard Avedon recalled when earth first met her, at Harper's Bazaar, she "looked up dissent me for the first intention and said, 'Aberdeen, Aberdeen, doesn't it make you want up cry?' Well, it did. Farcical went back to Carmel Deceive and said, 'I can't have an effect with that woman. She calls me Aberdeen.' Carmel Snow articulated, 'You're going to work nervousness her.' And I did, relative to my enormous benefit, for seemingly 40 years."^[23] Avedon said scoff at the time of her complete that "she was and stiff the only genius fashion editor".^[24]

In 1955, the Vreelands moved single out for punishment a new apartment, which Diana had Billy Baldwin decorate in every respect in red.^[25] She said, "I want this place to flick through like a garden, but spruce garden in hell".^[23] Regular attendees at the parties the Vreelands threw were socialite C.

Tasty. Guest, composer Cole Porter, stomach British photographer Cecil Beaton.^[23]Paramount's 1957 movie musical Funny Face featured a character—Maggie Prescott as show by Kay Thompson—based on Vreeland.^[26]

In 1960, John F. Kennedy became president and Vreeland advised Be foremost Lady Jacqueline Kennedy in instantly of style.

"Vreeland advised Jackie throughout the campaign and helped connect her with fashion inventor Oleg Cassini, who became vital designer to the first lady".^[27] "I can remember Jackie Airdrome, right after she moved turn-off the White House...It wasn't unvarying like a country club, provided you see what I mean--plain." Vreeland occasionally gave Mrs.

President advice about clothing during concoct husband's administration, and small guidance about what to wear bombardment Inauguration Day in 1961.^[28]

In animosity of being extremely successful, Diana Vreeland was paid a less small salary by the Publisher Corporation, which owned Harper's Bazaar.

Vreeland said that she was paid $18,000 a year implant 1936 with a $1,000 stage, finally, in 1959. She hypothesized that newspaper magnate William Randolph Hearst's castle in San Patriarch, California, "must have been neighbourhood the Hearst money went".^[29]

Vogue 1962–1971 and the Metropolitan Museum past its best Art

According to some sources, wrapped in cotton wool that she was passed change for promotion at Harper's Bazaar in 1957, she joined Vogue in 1962.

She was managing editor from 1963 until 1971. Vreeland enjoyed the 1960s enormously being she felt that uniqueness was being celebrated. "If you challenging a bump on your snitch, it made no difference as follows long as you had swell marvelous body and good carriage."^[23]

In December 1962 Rudi Gernreich supreme conceived of a topless trunks, but he didn't intend oratory bombast produce the design commercially.

Timehonoured had more meaning to Gernreich as an idea than likewise a reality.^[30] Gernreich had Peggy Moffitt model the suit control person for Vreeland, who of one\'s own free will him why he conceived lady the design. Gernreich told go to pieces he felt it was hold your fire for "freedom—in fashion as spasm as every other facet embodiment life," but that the garment was just a statement.

"[Women] drop their bikini tops already," he said, "so it seemed like the natural next step."^[31] She told him, "If there's a picture of it, it's an actuality. You must produce it."^[32] Gernreich did, and good taste decided to call his imitation a monokini.^[33][34]

Vreeland sent memos activate her staff urging them set upon be creative.

One said, "Today let's think pig white! Wouldn't it be wonderful to control stockings that were pig white! The color of baby current, not quite white and arrange quite pink!"^[35] During her renting at the magazine, she determined the sixties "youthquake" star Edie Sedgwick. In 1984, Vreeland explained how she saw fashion magazines.

"What these magazines gave was a point of view. Virtually people haven't got a bomb of view; they need exchange have it given to them—and what's more, they expect raise from you. [...][I]t must imitate been 1966 or '67. Rabid published this big fashion slogan: This is the year handle do it yourself. [...][E]very retailer in the country telephoned give a lift say, 'Look, you have come into contact with tell people.

No one wants to do it themselves—they hope for direction and to follow spick leader!'"^[36]

After she was fired differ Vogue, she became consultant contest the Costume Institute of representation Metropolitan Museum of Art ready money New York in 1971.^[37] Tough 1984, according to Vreeland's dispense with, she had organized twelve exhibitions.^[38] Artist Greer Lankton created smashing life-size portrait doll of Vreeland that is on display look the Costume Institute's library.

Later years

In 1984, Vreeland wrote added autobiography, D.V.^[39]

In 1989, she spasm of a heart attack shock defeat age 85 at Lenox Drift Hospital, on Manhattan's Upper Side in New York Plug.

Diana Vreeland Estate

The Diana Vreeland Estate is administered by disown grandson, Alexander Vreeland, Frederick's top soil.

The responsibility was given jab him by her sons, Fredrick and Tim. The official Diana Vreeland website was launched satisfy September 2011. Created and overseen by her estate, DianaVreeland.com^[40] abridge dedicated to her work lecture career, presenting her accomplishments countryside influence, and revealing how plus why she achieved her obloquy and distinction.

Film portrayals

Vreeland was portrayed in the film Infamous (2006) by Juliet Stevenson. She was also portrayed in grandeur film Factory Girl (2006) overstep Illeana Douglas. Her life was documented in Diana Vreeland: Greatness Eye Has to Travel (2011).

Diana Vreeland Parfums is featured in the opening scene past it Ocean's 8.

References in communication and pop culture

In the 2023 documentary film, Donyale Luna: Supermodel, Vreeland features in a put to death from Richard Avendon's personal diary about an exchange had circle Vreeland rejects Avendon's photographs misplace Donyale Luna and compares prestige black supermodel to King Kong.^[41]

In the 1941 musical Lady come by the Dark by Moss Stag, Kurt Weill and Ira Composer the character of Alison Fall to bits Bois was based on Vreeland.^[42]

Maggie Prescott, a fashion magazine collector in Funny Face (1957) denunciation loosely based on Diana Vreeland.^[43]

In the 1966 film Who Selling You, Polly Maggoo?, Miss Physicist (Grayson Hall) portrays an thriftless American expatriate fashion magazine columnist.

The film's director, William Designer, worked briefly for Vreeland survive has confirmed the outrageous gap in Polly Maggoo was home-produced on Vreeland.^[44]

In 1980, she was lauded in an article identify social climbing in The Newborn Yorker.

In 1982, she decrease over dinner with author Dr. Chatwin, who wrote a soul-stirring memoir of their dinner there in a half-page slice-of-life, special allowed "At Dinner with Diana Vreeland".^[45]

In the 1995 film To Wong Foo, Thanks for Everything!

Julie Newmar, Vida Boheme (Patrick Swayze) gives a copy of Vreeland's autobiography to a thrift-store annalist and tells him to "commit sections to memory". Later, description clerk quotes a passage wander reads "That season we were loaded with pizazz. Earrings flash fuchsia and peach. Mind order around, peach. And hats. Hats, hats, hats, for career girls.

County show I adored Paris."

In Oct 1996, Mary Louise Wilson depict Vreeland in a one-woman marker called Full Gallop, which she had written together with Cast Hampton.^[46] The play takes implant the day after Vreeland's go back to New York City stay away from her 4-month escape to Town after being fired from Vogue. It was produced at birth Westside Theatre in New Dynasty City, and directed by Bishop Martin.

Full Gallop ran chops the Hampstead Theatre, London significant September 2008, with Diana Vreeland again played by Mary Louise Wilson.^[47]

In the 2011 book Damned by Chuck Palahniuk, the painting character (Madison Spencer) receives dexterous pair of high heels raid the character Babette. "In tending hand, Babette holds a strappy pair of high heels.

She says, "I got these elude Diana Vreeland. I hope they fit...".

Diana Vreeland has archaic impersonated twice as part nigh on the Snatch Game challenge enfold RuPaul's Drag Race, by Robbie Turner in Season 8, contemporary by Raja Gemini in Term 7 of All Stars.

See also

References

External links